The VW Golf 3 Cabrio I saw in the summer of 2008, a measure of the door on the parking lot. It was clear that the car had not ridden for some time. I then placed a note under the windshield with the owner whether the car would probably sell.

After a few days I received a phone call. One thing led to another and not much later after I bought my first Cabby! Because the car had so long stood still wasn almost everything to be replaced. The weather and some bad people had indulged in the car, resulting in around scratches, dents and an extremely dry roof. The priority then was back in the ‘good’ get the car moving. After a few good cleanings and replacement of various parts saw the Cabrio is a lot better off. The pictures you see on some scratches / damage fortunately not so good, but they were very clear as you stood beside the car.

To create the desired ‘intermediate level’ to achieve include the following repairs:
1. Shocks all around had to be replaced.
2. Power steering pump replaced.
3. Rear of a VR6 should be mounted for greater stopping power.
4. Replaced by a new roof.
5. Interior thoroughly cleaned.
6. Engine (1.8 90hp) a major service provided.

key points when you buy Golf 3 Cabrio:
1. What is the mileage?
2. Note the construction of the car. Versions in the last years of construction are made, often have much less trouble with teething problems and other ailments because they are resolved from the factory.
3. Check the electric windows a few times!
4. Voorschremen Left and Right of rust control.
- Tap a few times well everywhere and check the plate still tight.
5. Open the hood and see how the block is there and feel the engine is warm.
- If the engine is warm then it is a sign that the owner apparently was necessary to get warm this drive.
6. When you start, check the color of the exhaust.
- Blue denotes a problem with the piston ring / compression, black is poor combustion, etc. ..)
7. How are the tires worn?
- Is there for example 1 rear tire worn diagonally, this may be a sign of a bent axle or something
8. Walk on after all girders rust.
9. Close the hood easy?
- If not, it may indicate a previous accident.
10. Grasp the front tires and shake them back and forth.
- If there is play on it, then there must be something in front to be replaced (arm, homokineet etc..)
11. Feel the edges of the disc brakes.
Where here an upright edge flike and you shocks during braking in the brake pedal feel, then the discs to be replaced.
12. Press around the car, and see how it rebounds. If more than 1 in this movement, then the shocks may need replacing.
13. Is the exhaust air tight?
- Someone needs to throttle in the car while you shut down the outlet. Do you hear something hissing, then you know that somewhere in the exhaust system has a hole.
14. View the convertible top. Is this parched, yet does everything well, the tensioning cable still etc.
15. Last but not least, Is the maintenance manual available?
- So you can see whether or expensive turns coming and all services performed and of course purchase inspection at the mechanic can also provide clarity.

Good luck with your purchase!